The finished product

Now the buttons and buttonholes are in place I can clearly see the overall finish. Even though I have constructed a waistcoat before I do feel I have gained a lot as a completely different approach has been used. For example my previous waistcoat focused on tailoring techniques where as this one was more costume based so used larger seam allowances and focused on decoration. Also tailored garments are made precisely to someones measurements but as this particular piece will be used within the costume store there needed to be allowance for alterations and adding a 5cm seam allowance down the CB will do exactly this. 

In order to complete this garment we were allocated two weeks. However I did run over this time as I took longer on aspects such as the pockets and decoration. If I was working in a theatre workroom this would not have been allowed to happen as they do follow strict deadlines. For this reason I am aware that I need to focus on my time management skills as sometimes I am perhaps too cautious as I don't want to make mistakes but in the long run it may put me further behind. Although there are still areas I feel could have been done better, I am happy with the overall finish and I think I need to have more confidence in my work. Wanting to construct everything correctly is obviously a good quality to have but I think in future projects I need to stop over thinking things and trust my instincts that what I am doing is correct.

Finally my jacket is complete!

At the beginning of the week I wanted to work hard in preparing my lining and jacket ready for the final stages. As I had previously sewn together the jacket in top fabric meant I was aware of what seam allowances were needed and could go ahead stitching the lining together without any help. However the problem I did face was that the chosen fabric for my lining marked very easily when sewn so I needed to ensure all my stitching was correct first time as if any areas were to be unpicked I would be left with a series of holes from the machines needle. Although this was a problem it did encourage precision which actually saved me time in the long run as I was conscious in getting everything correct first time.


My costume design includes a large structured collar that will be worn underneath the suit, after my second fitting this collar was extended out over the shoulders in order to gain a smoother finish when the jacket is on. Although this change was made, I felt including shoulder pads to main jacket would give extra structure but also help maintain the shape if the large collar was to be removed at any point. Also by adding a small roll of ice wool to each sleeve head gave a neat curve leading from the shoulder down the arm. Having never used shoulder pads or ice wool before, it was helpful to learn the correct method of inserting them as I'm sure it will help in future projects. 


With everything in place on the jacket allowed for the next stage of the lining to be attached. In costume construction the most common method is for garments to be completed by hand. This meant the lining need to be slip stitched by hand at the neck, facings, sleeve cuffs, hem and flares. But before any of this, the top and bottom of each arm hole needed to be sewn together with an inch long swing catch, allowing for movement in the lining and not restricting my artist when conducting. With my particular jacket being double breasted and including side flares meant there was a lot of hand sewing to be done. The first few sections took a while but as I got further along my speed began to increase and although it did take time I feel it was good practise for my own skills.


Although I completed my garment in a very short time I was very conscious in finishing by friday as I was given these two weeks out of the costume store to do so and I need to prepare myself for the strict deadlines in industry. I am very pleased with how much I did complete as all of the processes are brand new information to me so the whole time I was learning as well as trying to keep up my speed and precision. As this is my first jacket I have made I'm sure that when I gain further skills I will look back and highlight areas which could be improved and hopefully learn from any mistakes. But for now I hope I have completed a suit with a smart finish thats reflects the designers intended idea. When we return from our easter break I would like to photograph my final garment so that I have good quality images to use towards my professional portfolio before the costumes are sent away to their artists.