Final evaluation

For my Self Directed unit I chose to study the Costume Store element as I felt this was the area in the industry I possibly want to continue with. As an extra part to this we were then introduced to project Breathe, which is part of the Olympic opening ceremonies in Weymouth. The projects are very different but combining the two has enabled me to refine my sewing skills but also experiment and explore different textiles techniques, giving me a strong body of work towards my professional portfolio.

At the beginning I was allowed time to complete lining my jacket from the previous Battle for the Winds unit. I was highly grateful for this as I had worked hard in producing a costume with a neat finish and didn’t want to let it down by rushing the lining. During my end of unit presentation tutors pointed out how areas such as the front edge didn’t lay flat and needed to be finished correctly. I was aware of this and explained how I had left the front for when inserting the lining. For this reason I wanted to finish everything to a high standard and show that my finishing skills are neat and tidy.

Once my jacket was complete I then joined the rest of my group in creating either a pair of breeches or a waistcoat. I was allocated a waistcoat to be made from a delicate striped fabric in cream.  At first I was extremely nervous as I knew any mistake would show but also that all stripes would need to be matched correctly. During construction of this garment the attention to detail was focused around the pockets and braid decoration. The pockets were the first step and extremely daunting but taking time over them was needed to avoid unnecessarily marking the fabric and having to re-cut. As the decoration was sewn by hand I wanted to take extra care but as stated in my blog, this extra time did set me back beyond the two-week time scale. This highlighted to myself how in some cases I perhaps need to be less cautious and keep on top of my time management. In the end I did gain a garment I am proud of but with this being the area of industry I want to enter, I will need to work on my pace of work ensuring I speed it up but still keeping to a high standard.

Although it was not something I signed up to, I have really enjoyed being a part of the Breathe project. When we first had our briefings about the different options available for the Self Directed unit this was not a project that appealed to me. However when it was further explained and I understood how the project involved a mixture of able and disabled bodies, I realized how much I could gain. Having been given the ‘Hunters’ designs has been nice to use various textiles techniques that I haven’t used since before university. This is an element I enjoy and given this opportunity I have produced two cloaks that include layering up of fabrics. Also the extra time given to Breathe has allowed me to create extra shoulder pads and a headdress towards my costumes. In particular I really enjoyed constructing the hat, as it is something completely different and I have been able to use equipment in the workshops that I have never worked with before. Part of this project asked for us to attend evening sessions and though the initial idea of running workshops did at first seem very daunting, as the weeks have pasted it has been really nice working with everyone. In particular there have been a couple of volunteers who have helped myself a few weeks in a row. This has been nice for them to see my costume progress and ask about my work but also for me to learn about their involvement in Breathe.

I did initially sign up for the costume store project in order to gain greater confidence that I can produce work to a high standard. As even though I am happy with my finished waistcoat I would have liked to continue constructing other garments as well. This being said I have really enjoyed being a part of Breathe and working with unusual materials to create unique costumes. I am pleased I have spent the last two weeks working full time on this project as I have been able to create two costumes and even though this term is finished I still want to attend the evening sessions to help break down all garments and see the project through to the end.

Continuing with Breathe

Although this term is coming to an end this Breathe project is still continuing for a few weeks. I now feel very involved in the project and want to see it through to the end. In particular my two cloaks are finished on the construction side but to match the brief as being hunters from the sea, they will need further breaking down. This will involve dip dying and painting into sections  as well as spraying on sandy effects that will really help complete the look. Also the evening sessions will continue so hopefully more volunteers will attend and can get involved in finishing their own garments.  

Final Hunter Hat

With the horns painted and dry then allowed for them to then be attached to some form of head-dress. For this we used baseball caps as they were already to a head shape and can be easily adjusted at the back. First we cut away the peak as this was not needed. Then inserting wire up into each horn we could use the remaining wire and the base to secure them to the cap where needed. With the wire coiled to the inside of the hat, we used circles of thin foam to cover this for comfort when worn by the artists. Another strip was also attached around the base as this meant it could sit further down on the head to feel more secure when worn. Finally we hand stitched strips of different fabrics across the entire hat to cover the base material and also give great texture.  

This close up shot really shows the variety in materials used and will look really effective when broken into to match the base costumes. They will complete the look and make the characters instantly recognisable as 'Hunters'. In order to sit securely on the artists heads elastic may need to be added but this is something that can be fixed during fittings to ensure it is correct for the specific person. 

Viking Hats

The designs show for each artist to wear head-dresses and these hats are inspired from the horns seen on vikings helmets. As they will be worn all day means they need to be lightweight but also secure to stay in place. Following the example created by the design team myself and another student worked together in creating two further hats to contribute. To create the shape shown below we had to cut a series of circles from blue foam using a hot saw in the workshop. Then once cut we could angle them so that when together they would create the curved horn shape pictured below. 

 

Then using a glue gun to fix in place they were ready to be filed for a smooth finish. As the characters are intended to have been well travelled the horns need to appear worn and broken down. To add texture we mixed sand into PVA glue to coat the foam before painting over them. Keeping this idea of worn down horns we painted a graduated colour of dark brown going up to white before using gold to highlight the raised sections of sand. I think the gold has helped in creating a really effective finish to show horns that are tired and battered from the sea.

Cloak #2 Final

As with the previous cloak I have finished this one with shoulder pads, barnacles and seaweed. The design showed for this cloak to sit mainly on the left shoulder and off the right. However when making this the weight of the fabric would put too much strain on the left shoulder so I have chosen to make it sit on both to even out the weight. So the artist will have enough space for movement I have also pulled back some of the bulk, but this time making it so the material sits over the two arms to show more of the figure. To connect the two sides I have also included a plaited rope so the design appears as though the cloak has just been picked up and quickly wrapped around the neck.

       

Above is an image showing a close up of barnacles and seaweed that cover both capes. The barnacles are placed in clusters with some being underneath sections of netting and the seaweed to appear as if it has caught onto parts of the costume. Once the whole garment has been broken down and colours dulled down I think all these added elements will look really effective and help show the characters as hunters of the sea.

Finally the image above shows where I have sewn on elastic hoops to the inside of the capes. This is so when worn they will sit comfortably in place and can follow the arm movements of the artists when performing. This is something I have included for both costumes as I feel it will be easier to wear but also make them sit correctly against the base costumes underneath. To stay in place poppers will also be sewn to the shoulders of the cloak and base costume. As these are waiting to be brought they are something that will need to be attached at a later date. 

Cloak #1 Final

With both cloaks now complete meant that I could finalise them by sewing on barnacles and seaweed. The 'hunters' are intended to be hunters of the sea and be part of the beach. For this reason the cloaks need to appear as though they have been distressed over time and have collected things such as barnacles along the way. 

The two images below show a front and back view of the first cloak. As shown in the design I wanted to include the different bands of materials in a mixture of textures. At the top i have also included a large section of net that drapes around both shoulders. The reason for this is I wanted it to appear as though the hunters have collected various materials and wrapped themselves in them to create this cloak. By hand sewing sections of this top net in place has allowed for there to still be movement in the wind but at the same time secure in place.

  

 

Above is a close up of a finished shoulder pad. I chose to included a layer of wadding underneath the net as it fills out the shape giving more structure. Then once in place on the cloak I included a few feathers to give an added texture. I feel these pads give greater width to the costume and will only enhance the actors frame and create a strong hunter character. 

Textured Shoulder Pads

During tonights Breathe session I wanted to start creating the shoulder pads towards my two designs. The process is very simple as it just involves tying strips of fabric to a netted base and then snipping the excess. As you tie on more fabrics it builds up to create a section of spiky fabrics as pictured below. Once the section is at the correct size I can then back the netting to calico to strengthen them before stitching to the cloaks. To enhance the shape I could also use wadding between another layer calico as this would enhance the shape and make them stand out further.

One element of Breathe that I have really enjoyed is getting to know the volunteers who help out in the evenings. Although only a few attend, there are a couple who often attend and it is interesting to find out what they are doing within Breathe themselves. For instance one man who helped create these pads this evening has also helped with painting my base shapes. So over the last few weeks he has been interested in how my costume is developing but also talking about what work he is involved in. 

Cloak #2

As with the previous cloak the base shape was painted during one of the evening Breathe sessions. Having completed my first one I now know what techniques and fabrics to use and with this design being a smaller version, should enable me to finish it quicker. 


The second of my designs will be worn by a young girl so I don't want to build into the decoration as much as my first costume. This is because she will need less weight to not only cope with dancing but also to sit comfortably on her smaller frame. With this in mind I do still intend on making both pieces appear as though they are from the same collection. The same fabrics and layering will be used just the shaping will differ to separate the two. Now working full time on this project means I have full days to concentrate on this garment which I intend on completing in the next few days so I can then create other elements for the rest of the week.

Cloak #1 finished

Although I was worried at first, adding extra length to the garment has actually matched it better to my design. Also with my artist being quite tall will mean the cloak is now balanced against his height and wont appear out of proportion to his body.


Once the shoulder pads have been created I will be able to attach them along with barnacles and seaweed to finally complete the design. 

Breathe full time

With the last garment for the costume store on hold until next year means a group of us are able to continue working full time on the Breathe project. This extra time allows for us to complete full costumes rather than just creating sections towards a body of work. I feel much happier with this outcome as in the last Battle for the Winds unit I overlapped lining my jacket into this term, so handed in an unfinished garment. Although I knew what was needed to be done it didn't feel right handing over a partially finished piece. This is something that would of happened again as the limited time may not have allowed for both cloaks to be completed. But now the extra time means I can begin looking at other elements for the hunters designs to create as well as finishing both cloaks.


Both designs include shoulder pads made up of tied fabric which is something that is simple but effective, so could be created during an evening Breathe session with volunteers. Also once both cloaks have been sewn I can follow the example created by the design team and produce a viking inspired head-dress. This is an area more exciting as I wont just be focusing on the sewing elements but also getting creative in constructing sections as the horns for the head-dress and being able to paint them etc.

No need to worry

To in keep with my design I feel that my first cloak needs greater length adding to it. Although I was worried about adding further weight to the garment, having spoken to the designer we decided that adding length to the base with netting would be the best option. Having this close relationship with the designer has been really helpful as it has allowed me to think up ideas but as she personally knows the artists and their abilities means she can direct which methods are best to use. 


I feel I was maybe too cautious that my first artist is partially blind as I didn't want to create a garment that would be difficult to dress or be too big that it over-powers him. As time has gone on I now realise that this was unnecessary as this design is very basic and wont actually affect him as much as I first thought. In fact the garment will only make him stand out more with strong shoulders to portray a manly hunter, an aspect my artist will probably enjoy.  

The finished product

Now the buttons and buttonholes are in place I can clearly see the overall finish. Even though I have constructed a waistcoat before I do feel I have gained a lot as a completely different approach has been used. For example my previous waistcoat focused on tailoring techniques where as this one was more costume based so used larger seam allowances and focused on decoration. Also tailored garments are made precisely to someones measurements but as this particular piece will be used within the costume store there needed to be allowance for alterations and adding a 5cm seam allowance down the CB will do exactly this. 

In order to complete this garment we were allocated two weeks. However I did run over this time as I took longer on aspects such as the pockets and decoration. If I was working in a theatre workroom this would not have been allowed to happen as they do follow strict deadlines. For this reason I am aware that I need to focus on my time management skills as sometimes I am perhaps too cautious as I don't want to make mistakes but in the long run it may put me further behind. Although there are still areas I feel could have been done better, I am happy with the overall finish and I think I need to have more confidence in my work. Wanting to construct everything correctly is obviously a good quality to have but I think in future projects I need to stop over thinking things and trust my instincts that what I am doing is correct.

Cloak #1

For the past two weeks I have continued working on the first cloak for my hunters designs. The cloak pictured below is a work in progress for the longer of the two designs. As shown in a previous post I attached layers of white threaded fabric to the base cloak using circles and free machine embroidery. To then build up the next layer I introduced a dark leather that when up close includes raised fur sections. This then allowed for a shaped edge to be cut to help blend the different sections of colour together through over lapping fabrics. 

 

Building up layers of fabric has given some weight to the garment but as this will be worn by a male artist who is not dancing allows for me to continue using this method. Although some weight has been added I still don't want to keep adding more and more fabric as he will still need to move and I do not want to swamp my artist. For this reason I have chosen to pinch a large section on the left shoulder and tie it back away from the body. This should hopefully free the body underneath but also spread the weight so that it sits on both shoulders.

Waistcoat completed

Finally after a couple weeks of working I have completed sewing together my waistcoat. Although I did take longer than the initial two weeks allocated to finish I am glad I did as it was time spent on my decoration. The decoration used for my waistcoat included braid with very tight loops. As each loop needed to be sewn invisibly meant that extra time and care needed to spent on this area. In industry I am aware that this time would not have been as flexible and would have needed to be completed to a specific date. However as I have been working with such delicate fabric I felt the need to be over cautious. The images below show my final shape, the next stage now is to sew on buttons and mark buttonholes ready to be sewn in place. 

      

As shown above two rows of braid were attached down the front and extra added at the collar and pocket flaps. When sewing to the collar and pocket flaps care needed to be taken so the braid pointed in the correct direction and sat neatly at all corners.

Hunters Cloaks

The designs given for the hunter's cloaks show very textured surfaces built up in layers of different materials. As the Breathers wearing the garments will be dancing and performing I must consider the lining as this is an area that will also be seen. So during last nights Breathe club a couple of volunteers helped paint into the base shapes created last week in order to gain a range of mottled colours in rusty browns and reds. Having created a few samples the designer then wanted it to appear as though deep colours had been soaked up from the murky sea and graduating up to lighter shades. Similar to the base costumes, we used screen printing paints to sponge on the colours to gain the vibrant shades but also means the cloaks will blend well against these base garments. The images below show the final effect and I feel will create a good contrast against the textiles surface.

With the lining painted allowed for today to concentrate on decorating the reverse side. Before now I had a vague idea of how the designer wanted the cloaks to be textured and appear as though materials had been collected from the beach, but no idea of how to connect it all together. Unlike any other project I have found it really helpful to have the designer in the studios during all sessions as she has been able to clearly talk through ideas and indicate the materials she wishes to be used. So for the first time I felt confident to go away and start sewing sections together.

Using netting, cotton and other fabrics I began layering on the cloaks reverse. The layers are intended to appear thrown on so by stitching various sized circles simply holds them together where needed but also imitates that of barnacles. Below shows the beginnings of this technique and hopefully by the end will create a greatly interesting garment. 

Decoration

During the 18th century embroidery decoration was very common on garments, especially in menswear (shown below). Jackets and waistcoats were a particular area of interest for this and as we are creating 18th century waistcoats, our tutor wanted to include this within our work. Although we will not be able to produce the same level of intricate work, using a decorative braid will hopefully gain a similar appearance. As seen in the image below decoration was commonly found down the CF next the button placement lines. For our waistcoats we will follow this by hand stitching two rows set slightly in from the CF and then one row around the collar and pocket flaps. Once in place I feel it will really finish the piece giving a smart finish. 

Hirokawa, T. Man's Suit (habit à la française). [online image]. Available from :http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/detail_9_e.html. [Accessed 25th April 2012]

Pockets

The waistcoats pocket is the first stage of construction but also the most daunting. Having done pockets before in a tailoring unit I already have some experience with this and working in stripped fabric. However the fabric I have been given this time around is a very delicate cream so I am aware how any mistake could damage its aesthetic.


The pocket style we are creating isn't overly complicated, just trying to produce a neat finish is the hard part. I chose this unit to work on my finishing and sewing skills so for this reason I am conscious in creating something to a high standard. When attaching the pocketing I did choose to un-pick and re do areas to ensure everything was accurate before cutting open the mouth. I felt this was necessary as it would only improve the final finish. 


With the pockets finished I am fairly happy although both pocket sides could be neater. I made the decision to finish this area as neatly as possible as if I was to continue working into the same areas I would darken the fabric and begin to weaken the fibres from constant unpicking. I feel this was the hardest stage and my fabric doesn't allow for mistakes. But from now on I will be using similar processes as used before so my focus is to continue in keeping the fabric pristine and making my stitching accurate. 

Breathe: The Hunters

Although last night I helped run a workshop in creating sections of weaving for the jesters garments, the costumes I will be working on is the Hunters. As with all designs the actors will be wearing painted base costumes but will have various cloak designs to distinguish them as hunter characters. 


As there is a group of us constructing these cloaks we decided they should all look part of a collection but with our own takes on them. For this reason we chose to all create the same base shape following the pattern of a circular skirt as this shape would fit well around the neck, draping nicely down the body. The fullness from the skirt panels also means no movement would be restricted so wouldnt affect the arms when dancing. 


With the base shape in place my next step is to begin researching into textiles techniques that can be applied to my two cloaks. The Hunters are characters from the land or sea so their costumes will take influence from this by including netting, barnacles, furs and objects that have attached over time. In some cases their cloaks may be longer so will have trailed along the ground collecting dirt so for this reason it could be interesting to experiment with spray dyes or dip dying a graduation of colour to reflect this. By experimenting with different fabrics and materials I hope to produce textured garments that will make an impact from a distance but also be interesting up close.

Weaving

With tonight being the second evening for Breathe the sessions are still getting started and being introduced to everyone, so again stations were set up with a variety of activities. 

The station I was put in charge of was weaving strips of fabric to produce large squares which could then go towards the jesters costumes. First we prepared lengths of ribbon specific to each actors waist and leg measurements so when the volunteers arrived they would have a base to work onto. Using strips of fabric, ribbons and trimmings we asked for lengths to be pinned to the base strips which we could then machine in place before beginning the weaving process. As my photos show below the variety in materials used is really effective for introducing different textures and colours. 

The next stage to think about is how you could actually now use these sections of weaving. This is because although all strips are woven together, there is nothing holding them in place so would need to be backed before it can then be shaped, cut into or manipulated to match the specific designs. 

Beginning the waistcoat

With everything cut and mark stitched for my waistcoat I can now begin the construction process. The aim for this costume store unit is to start working more independently and not rely on tutors for step by step instructions. For this reason myself and the other three girls making waistcoats took time out today to study the example garment to work out the order and how it could be constructed. Today was the only day this week we had with our tutor Dexter to ask advise, so by thinking ahead with the construction process meant we could use this time to answer any questions to continue working on or own, understanding how everything is to be done. 


As a group we decided the pockets on the waistcoat fronts was the starting point. As shown in my previous post last week the pocket has an open mouth which is shaped to point on the bottom edge. Having looked closer at the example, we decided the process will follow the same as when creating a welt for turning it through but it just wont include the two welts and instead be open. As I am working with a stripped fabric I need to take care when sewing my pockets as they both need to be placed correctly and mirror each other. 


The next few days I plan to complete both pockets and begin piecing together the rest of the waistcoat sections and attaching the facing before beginning the lining process. 

Hunter designs

Below are the two designs I chose to create from the 'hunters' group. What drew me to the these designs is that I liked the idea of building up the decoration in layers, as to do this I would be able to incorporate a variety of materials and techniques. Also the two cloaks are very similar with one just being a shortened version of the other. This means I can produce two cloaks that look similar enough to be recognised as being part of the same collection but also include some differences.

Design collaborated by Kate McStraw based on designs by Kirsty Hanlon and level 5 designers.

The design shown above includes a long cloak which drapes across both shoulders and down the body. This particular design is to be worn by a male who is visually impaired, so is something I will need to take into account during construction. For instance I will need to ensure the cloak is easy enough so he can dress himself but also keeps his arms and hands free. Also including a variety of textures as decoration is something that may appeal to this artist.  

Design collaborated by Kate McStraw based on designs by Kirsty Hanlon and level 5 designers

This shorter design will be worn by a teenage girl who will be participating in the dance routines. For this reason I will not make the costume as bulky as the previous as it will need to be lighter for movement but also not restricting to the arms or body.

18th Century Waistcoat

Today was the first session back after the easter break where we were assigned to making a waistcoat or breeches for the next three weeks. I was given a men's 18th Century waistcoat pattern using the following measurements:

• Chest: 40 inch
• Waist: 35 inch
• Hip: 40 inch

The fabric I have been given is a very delicate stripped wool cashmere in cream. This means I will not only have to back it in white cotton but also later on be precise in my stitching as any unpicking could damage and mark the material. Then as a contrast to this a silesia fabric in a fawn colour which will be used for the back pieces but also follow through to line the inside of the waistcoat. Below are some photos of the example waistcoat we will be using as a guide.

Having studied the example waistcoat first I could go ahead and cut all my pattern pieces. The lining could be cut easily adding 2.5cm seam allowance all the way around apart from the CB where 5cm is needed. And then to avoid marking my top cream fabric I cut all the necessary front pieces in cotton first adding seam allowance and then use these pieces as a template to translate onto the cream but ensuring all stripes are mirrored and follow the straight of grain. Then by mark stitching all lines the cotton and cream will hold together, treating them as one layer. 

By the end of the week I hope to have everything cut out and all lines mark stitched correctly ready to begin construction next week. 

First evening Breathe session

With the first session it was unclear as to how many people would attend but for those who did, it was important to explain what this project is about and what we intend to do.


Different stations were set up which focused on various elements that would go towards the Breathers costumes. This included jesters cable ties, fringing for the elders and painting base costumes. Although only a few were able to make this first session it was nice to meet a couple of people involved themselves as with this being a community project you are able to meet new people of all abilities.


For future sessions I hope more and more people will attend and hopefully more of the artists as it will be nice to work with them in creating their own costumes they will be wearing on the day.

Finally my jacket is complete!

At the beginning of the week I wanted to work hard in preparing my lining and jacket ready for the final stages. As I had previously sewn together the jacket in top fabric meant I was aware of what seam allowances were needed and could go ahead stitching the lining together without any help. However the problem I did face was that the chosen fabric for my lining marked very easily when sewn so I needed to ensure all my stitching was correct first time as if any areas were to be unpicked I would be left with a series of holes from the machines needle. Although this was a problem it did encourage precision which actually saved me time in the long run as I was conscious in getting everything correct first time.


My costume design includes a large structured collar that will be worn underneath the suit, after my second fitting this collar was extended out over the shoulders in order to gain a smoother finish when the jacket is on. Although this change was made, I felt including shoulder pads to main jacket would give extra structure but also help maintain the shape if the large collar was to be removed at any point. Also by adding a small roll of ice wool to each sleeve head gave a neat curve leading from the shoulder down the arm. Having never used shoulder pads or ice wool before, it was helpful to learn the correct method of inserting them as I'm sure it will help in future projects. 


With everything in place on the jacket allowed for the next stage of the lining to be attached. In costume construction the most common method is for garments to be completed by hand. This meant the lining need to be slip stitched by hand at the neck, facings, sleeve cuffs, hem and flares. But before any of this, the top and bottom of each arm hole needed to be sewn together with an inch long swing catch, allowing for movement in the lining and not restricting my artist when conducting. With my particular jacket being double breasted and including side flares meant there was a lot of hand sewing to be done. The first few sections took a while but as I got further along my speed began to increase and although it did take time I feel it was good practise for my own skills.


Although I completed my garment in a very short time I was very conscious in finishing by friday as I was given these two weeks out of the costume store to do so and I need to prepare myself for the strict deadlines in industry. I am very pleased with how much I did complete as all of the processes are brand new information to me so the whole time I was learning as well as trying to keep up my speed and precision. As this is my first jacket I have made I'm sure that when I gain further skills I will look back and highlight areas which could be improved and hopefully learn from any mistakes. But for now I hope I have completed a suit with a smart finish thats reflects the designers intended idea. When we return from our easter break I would like to photograph my final garment so that I have good quality images to use towards my professional portfolio before the costumes are sent away to their artists. 

Cable ties

As the breathe designs are still being finalised all we can do is begin to prepare for the evening Breathe sessions that will being the first wednesday after easter.


One group the Breathers will be spilt into is the 'Jesters'. The distinguishing element for this group is that their costumes will include structural wrist and ankle bands made up of cable ties. To do this a series of ties will be attached to elastic, creating bands the artists can wear. The ties can then be painted into and trimmed to match and blend with the base costumes.


By sourcing clear ties meant we could use dyes to gain vibrant colours to match the character that would be seen in a jesters costume. At first I thought this would be a long process as the plastic ties would not take the dye. However it was an instant process that as soon as you dipped the ties in the saucepan, the colour was absorbed. Looking at the images below you can see the bright colours we created and were even able to dip-dye the yellow, making the tips darker.

With the ties dyed they then needed rinsing off and left to dry ready for the evening sessions to begin.

Learning Agreement

For the Self Directed Project (SDP) unit I have chosen the Costume Store Project as this will involve using existing patterns to create a range of garments for the university’s own costume hire store. It is aimed to run as a professional workroom environment where as a group we will follow set instructions to improve and perfect our sewing skills.

I have chosen to study this pathway, as I am interested in following a career in theatre. In the past I have been fortunate to gain work experience in this area but I still feel there is a lot to learn. With this particular project simulating a professional workroom will give me a greater insight into this industry and hopefully prepare me for working in similar conditions. As a group we will be given various patterns and be expected to overcome problem solving both together and individually. Although there will be guidance from a tutor, we are responsible for our own time management to ensure the garments are made. For this reason I will have to plan my time carefully with realistic goals if I am to meet all deadlines. This will encourage myself to work quicker but the whole while checking each stage is constructed correctly to avoid any mistakes that will waste time and push me back. I hope this project will boost confidence in my sewing ability so that in the future I can overcome tasks whilst coping with the pressure of strict time frames.

From our previous CIC unit I was given the design of ‘The Conductor’ for the county Somerset in the Battle for the Winds Olympic opening ceremonies, Weymouth. I was unable to finish lining my jacket so I am using the first two weeks of SDP to complete this, giving me extra time to ensure all my finishing’s are correct and neatly done as well as any other jobs that need doing. My particular jacket’s double breasted including a box pleat and facing and are areas I want to focus on in order to gain the best finish.

I will be involved in constructing costumes for the store however another part to this is to also be involved within the Breathe project. Breathe is also a part of the Olympic ceremonies in Weymouth where a large cast will take part in the finale. This cast brings together different dance groups to create ‘the breathers’ who are aged 12-50 years old and are disabled, non-disabled or suffer learning difficulties.

The ‘Breathers’ are characters made up of washed up debris and who live as part of the beach. They will be split up into six different character groups such as the elders, jesters, navigators, teenage rebels etc. Everyone will wear the same base costume where further garments are to be added over the top. This is because each character group will have a distinguishing garment/ piece to separate them, for example the teenage rebels will all wear Mohawk headdresses. As a group we will help create these costumes both at uni and in evening classes. The evening classes will require us teaching volunteers in constructing sections of the costumes. This is intended to be a community project as it is open to locals but also the breathers themselves, meaning some of the artists will have the opportunity in making their own costumes.

At the end of this unit I will have completed my costume from CIC and produced two further garments towards the university’s costume store. This will include either a men’s waistcoat or breeches and a women’s blouse. For the Breathe project I will also have helped in completing the breathers base costumes as well as creating various parts of garments during my own uni time and at the evening classes. Once everything is finished I will then have a strong body of work that can be used within my professional portfolio.

Preparing the jacket

As arranged last week I started this morning by sitting down with my tutor to discuss how I will begin the lining process for my suit jacket. From my previous CIC unit I didn't want to trim or secure any seam allowances as this left the jacket open for any alterations to be made before finalising it. This meant todays tasks involved finishing the inside, ready for my next session (wednesday) when I can attach the lining. Correctly pressing and turning up seam allowances created the crisp edges needed to give sharp lines for a neat finish. 


Up until now I have found it hard to understand how the jacket is to be finished as different tutors use different techniques. So having this guidance from Dexter in the morning was helpful in clarifying which processes I will follow. With him spending a short time answering my questions then enabled me to work for the rest of the day completing everything we had discussed. 


At the end of the day I was then able to go back to Dexter with everything completed and note down anything that would need to be ready for wednesday when I can insert the lining.


To do for wednesday:


    - Buy shoulder pads and ice wool from Aucb haberdashery (via my supervisor as will be paid for by the BFTW budget)
    - Ensure everything necessary is secure with herringbone stitch.
    - Cut lining pieces 
         - Checking the CB box pleat allowance is the same length, then add an extra 1cm to either side for further movement.
    - Machine stitch lining pieces together.

First week of costume store

As I only have limited days with my tutor (Dexter), means I need to ensure I think ahead of what I intend to complete for each week so that any questions I may have can be answered. 


For this first week I wanted to concentrate on lining my jacket as I felt this was a complicated process and would give me the opportunity to continue final finishings at the beginning of next week if I needed to. However our first day starting the costume store involved Dexter introducing the unit and me preparing the jacket buttonholes. With the rest of my week scheduled as independent study meant I would not have the opportunity for Dexter to sit down and explain the lining to me. For this reason we have arranged a time monday morning where we can discuss the jacket and answer any questions, so then I can use the full week to finish. In the meantime I still have a few things I need to finish on my suit trousers so I will use the rest of this week to complete the list below and prepare anything I need for next monday.


To do week 1 


Trousers:
    - Move zip further back on facing to give a neater finish when closed.
    - Redo top stitching on facing side.
    - Zig zag stitch over elastic sections in waistband.
    - Machine stitch waistband down and then herringbone overlocked edge.
    - Paint shadows into pipes.
    
Jacket preparation:
    - Machine cord on cuff line and unravel that in seam allowance to separate and hand sew              down.
    - Check I have the lining material and all patterns.
    - Write any questions I may have, for example how to over come the back box pleat. 

The beginning of Breathe

For this SDP unit I previously explained how I would be involved in constructing costumes for the universities own costume store. The other part to this unit is to also be involved with the Breathe project.

Our previous CIC unit focused on Battle for the Winds for the Olympic opening ceremonies in Weymouth. The Breathe project is also a part of this where a large cast will be involved in the finale of the Weymouth celebrations. This cast brings together four different dance groups to create ‘the breathers’, aged 12-50 years old who are disabled, non-disabled or have learning difficulties. As a group they will be involved within the storyline to produce an exciting performance.

The ‘Breathers’ are characters made up of washed up debris and who live as part of the beach. Within this they will be split up into six different character groups such as the elders, jesters, navigators, teenage rebels etc. Everyone will wear the same base costume where further garments are to be added over the top. This is because each character group will then have a distinguishing garment/ piece to separate them. For example the teenage rebels will all wear Mohawk headdresses. As a group we will help create these costumes both at uni and in evening classes. The evening classes will require us teaching volunteers in constructing sections of the costumes. This is intended to be a community project as it is open to locals but also the breathers themselves, meaning some of the artists will have the opportunity to make their own costumes.

The evening sessions aren’t due to start until after the Easter break so our first task is to finish creating the base costumes. Below is a photo taken from Weymouth beach showing how over time the iron bridge has become rusted and created a unique pattern. This has then been used as inspiration for the base costumes (also shown below).

At first white garments were sourced and then dip dyed to create a graduation in colour. Paint was then sponged on top of this giving more texture to reflect the patterns found at Weymouth. 

Above is an example of one of the tops I worked on myself, using the Weymouth photo and example as a guide. I wanted the colours to be strong so they stand out but also blend into one another giving a mottled effect.

Burlesque

As an extra project outside of uni, myself and group of girls from the course are involved in creating costumes for a local burlesque company in Bournemouth. A few weeks ago we met with the organiser/ choreographer to talk through initial themes and what garments are needed.


The main theme for all the garments is 'Candy' taking inspiration from the Katy Perry music video california girls. Six sets are to be light pastel pink with candy decoration of sequins and subtle sweet shapes. Although these sets are to be similar, there is a variety of full corsets, under-bust corsets and all-in-one corsets to avoid a uniform look. Then in contrast to this there are two toxic candy sets which will be emerald green with dark sequins and decoration. As a group we needed to research images and think realistically what we can produce in the time frame we have.


Working with another girl on the course who studies the design pathway, she produced some initial design sketches for the group. On Tuesday this week a few of us arranged to go to the choreographers flat to meet the girls and take all the necessary measurements. It also gave us an opportunity to present the initial designs and talk through any more ideas she had for the garments. After this we then had a clearer idea of what was needed and the overall look they wanted. As she really liked the designs, the next step is to send across the remaining sketches as once they are all approved we can begin pattern drafting and the construction process. 


In the meantime we can start collecting fabric samples, and using each others corsetry knowledge to discuss how we will make all the sets. Hopefully we will have final designs and final fabrics sorted so that after the easter break we can begin construction.

The beginning of SDP

Having just finished our Concepts in Context (CIC) project working on Battle For The Winds, I will now begin the Self Directed Project (SDP) that will last until the end of this academic year. This SDP unit is aimed to develop our own interests as costume makers/designers and begin our personal and professional development.

For this unit I have chosen the Costume Store Project where we will follow existing patterns to create a range of garments for the university’s own costume hire store. It is aimed to run as a professional workroom where we will follow the guidance of a tutor to improve and perfect our sewing skills. We will be expected to overcome problem solving as a team but also independently and take responsibility for our own time management.

From our previous CIC unit we produced costumes towards Battle of the Winds for the Olympic opening ceremonies in Weymouth this summer. I was given the design of 'The Conductor' for the county Somerset. The design is an Edwardian military suit with decoration inspired by various musical instruments. As I was unable to finish lining the jacket I am using the first two weeks of this SDP unit to complete this, giving me extra time to ensure all my finishing’s are correct and neatly done. With the jacket being doubled breasted, having a box pleat and facing means these are areas I will need to focus on. Firstly I will need to mark and sew my buttonholes into place and then use my tutors advise for the lining so I can then begin my independent work to finishing the garment correctly.

As I only have two weeks to complete my jacket means I will need to draw up a work plan so I am clear of what needs to be done but that also fits around other projects I am involved in outside of the course.

To do for Wednesday:

-       - Complete learning agreement.

-       - Produce a work plan.

-       - Mark and sew buttonholes onto jacket front.

-       - Sit down with my tutor to discuss how I will line my jacket.